Manual Ihc 656
Guess Im out off luck here. I guess there are no 656s left around the country. Oh well hope somebody has some info for me. Surly got to be some mechanics around. If anybody could direct me to some help.
I would appreciate it. I am going to do this real soon an need some help ASAP. Thanks sorry for being so impatient. Read your IT or IH service manual thouroughly and carefully-repeatedly and reference it during the job. If this is your first, find a mentor that actually knows his shtuff. You can't rush into it, it takes some planning.
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Even pros plan, they just can do it in their heads pretty quick because of their experience. You're gonna need alot of wood blocks, jack stands, bottle jacks, 3 ton floor jacks, 'scrap iron' for fabrication, and nuts&bolts. Or a proper splitting stand and some of the other items. I changed the clutch on ours during an engine overhaul with some blocking, a cherry picker/engine hoist, and a portapower for a jack-taking it apart and putting together one piece at a time (front bolster off, then engine block). If all you need to do is the clutch, you can roll away the front from the middle or vice versa. You want the halves as stable as possible, and then a little more. Some people prefer the front vs rear as the stationary half.
A wide front needs to be stabilized so it does not pivot. I have heard of using a fast hitch tractor with down pressure to help move and stabalize the rear end. THere is no one right way to do this, there are a lot of wrong ways too. Be creative, but remember SAFETY FIRST. There is a lot of sheetmetal, wiring, and plumbing to disconnect/remove. Figure a day of preparation before the big moment (likely faster as you gain experience).
If you have a TA you may want to inspect/fix that now, although you will have to drain the rear end and split the tractor again further back if it needs service. This is where the mentor comes in again. YOu will need the flywheel resurfaced as long as you are in there, so figure a week of waiting in your planning. There's also the pto drive shaft that can wear that should be replaced at this time if it is worn-another mentor moment.
It's simple and straightforward, just a lot of details that will make it overwhelming or a nightmare if you don't know what to address right now. The above is my opinion and merely a summary of concepts, use at your own risk, etc. Guess Im out off luck here. I guess there are no 656s left around the country. Oh well hope somebody has some info for me.
Surly got to be some mechanics around. If anybody could direct me to some help. I would appreciate it. I am going to do this real soon an need some help ASAP. Thanks sorry for being so impatient.
Read your IT or IH service manual thouroughly and carefully-repeatedly and reference it during the job. If this is your first, find a mentor that actually knows his shtuff. You can't rush into it, it takes some planning. Even pros plan, they just can do it in their heads pretty quick because of their experience. You're gonna need alot of wood blocks, jack stands, bottle jacks, 3 ton floor jacks, 'scrap iron' for fabrication, and nuts&bolts. Or a proper splitting stand and some of the other items. I changed the clutch on ours during an engine overhaul with some blocking, a cherry picker/engine hoist, and a portapower for a jack-taking it apart and putting together one piece at a time (front bolster off, then engine block).
If all you need to do is the clutch, you can roll away the front from the middle or vice versa. You want the halves as stable as possible, and then a little more. Some people prefer the front vs rear as the stationary half. A wide front needs to be stabilized so it does not pivot.
I have heard of using a fast hitch tractor with down pressure to help move and stabalize the rear end. THere is no one right way to do this, there are a lot of wrong ways too.
Be creative, but remember SAFETY FIRST. There is a lot of sheetmetal, wiring, and plumbing to disconnect/remove.
Figure a day of preparation before the big moment (likely faster as you gain experience). If you have a TA you may want to inspect/fix that now, although you will have to drain the rear end and split the tractor again further back if it needs service. This is where the mentor comes in again. YOu will need the flywheel resurfaced as long as you are in there, so figure a week of waiting in your planning.
There's also the pto drive shaft that can wear that should be replaced at this time if it is worn-another mentor moment. It's simple and straightforward, just a lot of details that will make it overwhelming or a nightmare if you don't know what to address right now. The above is my opinion and merely a summary of concepts, use at your own risk, etc. Karl f Very good advise.
When you remove the work clutch make sure to take note of how the clutch disc was facing. A very common beginners mistake is to install the clutch disc backwards. I always install a new engine rear crankshaft seal when doing a clutch. Many years ago I had dad's 656 apart to replace the rear freeze plug. It rusted out, leaking coolant down over the clutch and seized it up so it wouldn't release.
I just set the brakes, blocked up the rear portion and removed the front bolster and then the engine one at a time using a skid loader as a cherry picker. Since I was working on dirt, this worked the best by far.
It really wasn't very hard, and as I recall, I did it all by myself. I left the one frame rail attached to the front bolster to remove it, and once it was off, reattached the other frame rail again, and then set the front end assembly into the back of an old flare wagon with the front wheels (narrow front) on the ground. This supported it just fine, since the frame rails sat on the bed of the wagon this stabilized it and it just so happened that the wagon bed was close enough in height to work. Once the bolster and frame were off, it was easy to pick the engine off, and then replace the clutch and freeze plug, etc. Just reverse to reassemble. Make yourself a couple of guide pins by cutting the heads off a couple of bolts and chamfering the ends to help align the front and back halves when you put it back together, and DO NOT use the bolts to pull the halves together. Once everything is aligned, it should roll together until the halves touch.
The beauty of having a digital camera is being able to take pictures of everything as you take it apart, so yo have a reference. Spend a couple of hours washing the tractor before you start disassembling it, and you will be a lot happier working on it. Wash a while, take a break and come back and wash some more, you will be surprised how much you missed the first time around. It never did bother me washing tractors before bringing them into the shop.
:: Author Message AndrewAnderson Regular Joined: 22 Apr 2017 Posts: 24 Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2018 11:12 pm Post subject: Ih 656 gas hydro I just bought a 656 gas hydro from an online auction. I know next to nothing about them but it was cheap enough. What are everyone's opinions on this model? I'm wary that it's a hydro but it runs and drives so we will see how it goes when I go pick it up. BarnyardEngineering Tractor Guru Joined: 23 Mar 2016 Posts: 3776 Posted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 4:12 am Post subject: Re: Ih 656 gas hydro Hope you got it cheap. Gas hydros are pretty hard on fuel because you run the tractor at high throttle settings most of the time its moving. DeltaRed Tractor Guru Joined: 25 Feb 2010 Posts: 14526 Location: Delta,colorado Posted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 5:36 am Post subject: Re: Ih 656 gas hydro Hydros are awesome.
Everyone is scared of them because they 'use too much fuel and cost too much to fix'.Yes,they do tend to use more fuel than a gear drive. But not excessive.My 826H really doen't seem to use much more fuel than my 706.Everything costs a lot to fix these days.even a 'simple' TA/clutch job. Ever priced a JD powershift OH? A hydro is cheap compared.yes you can plow with them. The thing to do is to put in LOW when you are in the field. Set it to rated RPM,let the tractor 'chew',dont just push the lever clear ahead to get more speed and pull the guts out of it.Let it 'breath'.Hydros are great tractors.Best there is for PTO work(baleing),choreing.Once you get used to it,you will love it.
Jeff M NY Regular Joined: 11 Dec 2014 Posts: 159 Posted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 6:01 am Post subject: Re: Ih 656 gas hydro Oh absolutely. Although my 656 hydro is diesel not gas, so i'm not sure how much gas it would use.
In comparison, I have a 666 gear drive which is gas and it isn't terrible on gas. Hydro works great for pto work. I use mine on the CIH 8530 square baler and it works great. Have also used it for many other things as well (sprayer, grain drill, etc.), but that is it's main job baling hay. Would really like to get a big frame hydro someday to run the round baler. Everything is expensive to fix, so it really doesn't matter what it is.
544hydro Regular Joined: 20 Jan 2016 Posts: 198 Posted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 6:25 am Post subject: Re: Ih 656 gas hydro I have a 544 gas hydro. I don't think it's bad on fuel and I love the hydro.
If the hydro is bad they are spendy to fix. BarnyardEngineering Tractor Guru Joined: 23 Mar 2016 Posts: 3776 Posted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 9:49 am Post subject: Re: Ih 656 gas hydro Whether you think a gas hydro is bad on fuel depends on how much you use it. If it's just a chore tractor to scoop out a pen with, or run some feed to the cattle, you probably won't notice it too much but if you're running it hard you'll be lucky to get a half day out of a tank of fuel. Farmall pete Regular Joined: 23 Mar 2016 Posts: 78 Posted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 2:18 pm Post subject: Re: Ih 656 gas hydro I have a gas and diesel hydro 656. Love 'em both.
504 Tractor Guru Joined: 14 Jun 2005 Posts: 5018 Posted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 7:16 pm Post subject: Re: Ih 656 gas hydro I use mine all of the time,mine is hard on gas only when it is on the bush hog. I wish the loader hydraulics were faster, but I am sure it was fast when it was built. AndrewAnderson Regular Joined: 22 Apr 2017 Posts: 24 Posted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 11:31 pm Post subject: Re: Ih 656 gas hydro I won't be using it for anything other than a few acres plowing and hauling firewood. It's a toy not a tool.
Manual Ihc 65611
Fuel usage doesn't matter to me. I am pretty excited to go pick it up. It is missing the 3pt arms.
I am going to be looking for a set. Anyone know if other models will fit it as well? I'm thinking they are similar on the 706/806, possibly the whole 66 series. Dave O'Brien Regular Joined: 26 Mar 2012 Posts: 228 Location: Stockport, Ohio Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2018 6:29 am Post subject: Re: Ih 656 gas hydro The 706/806 3-pt. Does NOT fit the 656, or vice-versa. The 656 is a 'narrow frame'. Also, the drawbar support bracket that bolts to the transmission housing around the PTO shaft is different between 3-pt.
And Fast-hitch versions. Good luck with yours. I'm pretty sure you are going to like it. 2002sliverado Long Time User Joined: 06 Nov 2014 Posts: 627 Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2018 8:37 am Post subject: Re: Ih 656 gas hydro I am not sure, but I think the 656 gas had the same 263 cubic inch engine as the early 706 gasoline powered tractor. I used to run this 706 for a neighbor whom I had worked for.
In that particular tractor, I never felt it was extremely thirsty, with respect to gasoline consumption. I also grew up around a Deere 6 cylinder gasoline tractor, too, which was known to be a fuel hog. I also had a 656 gasoline powered tractor, but in a gear drive. Like the 706, I never thought it was excessively thirsty, and I believe the engine in the 656 was 'de-tuned' some and the top rpm of the engine was slower, by comparison to the 706. I tend to believe the 656 Hydro engine runs a faster rpm versus the gear drive. I DO have 86 Hydro with the U.S. Built diesel engine.
Cts 2001 Manual Ihc Circuit Diagram
It is primarily used as yard, loader, and snow removal unit. Love the hydro, particularly on the snow blower, and my wife can operate the tractor with ease.
The prior 656 gear drive was not as user friendly to the 'novice' operator. With light loads, my 86 Hydro uses very little fuel.
I do not plow with it or use it for high draft pulling, such as plowing. In terms of putting the power to the rear wheels, a hydrostatic is the least efficient means of doing so. I only heard of one man who had a 1026 Hydro, who actually used it to pull a plow, and it was his large tractor at the time. I was told he did this for a number of years, and it would be worked hard in the fall pulling the plow. I know he did burn up a hydro unit at least once in doing so, but I also knew he had the fuel injection pump opened up a bit on that engine, too. Hydro70guy Regular Joined: 13 Aug 2016 Posts: 320 Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2018 9:58 am Post subject: Re: Ih 656 gas hydro Why would you run the engine any faster than a gear driven doing the same job? I would not if anything just driving it you throttle back and push hydro forward vs a gas where you might throttle up to not shift, Display posts from previous: - All times are GMT - 8 Hours Page 1 of 1 Jump to: Most of our stocked parts ship within 24 hours (M-Th).
Manual Ihc Staining Protocol
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